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The bottle design for Chanel No. It is believed Chanel adapted the rectangular, beveled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles he carried in his leather traveling case  or she adapted the design of the whiskey decanter Capel used.
She so much admired it that she wished to reproduce it in "exquisite, expensive, delicate glass". Even after Capel married an English aristocrat, Lady Diana Wyndham in , he did not completely break off with Chanel.
He died in a car accident on 21 December In losing Capel, I lost everything. What followed was not a life of happiness, I have to say.
Chanel had begun designing hats while living with Balsan, initially as a diversion that evolved into a commercial enterprise. She became a licensed milliner in and opened a boutique at 21 rue Cambon, Paris, named Chanel Modes.
Subsequently, Dorziat modelled Chanel's hats again in photographs published in Les Modes. In , Chanel opened a boutique in Deauville , financed by Arthur Capel, where she introduced deluxe casual clothing suitable for leisure and sport.
The fashions were constructed from humble fabrics such as jersey and tricot , at the time primarily used for men's underwear. Chanel had the dedicated support of two family members, her sister Antoinette, and her paternal aunt Adrienne, who was of a similar age.
Chanel, determined to re-create the success she enjoyed in Deauville, opened an establishment in Biarritz in After one year of operation, the business proved to be so lucrative that in Chanel was able to reimburse Capel's original investment.
They had a romantic interlude, and maintained a close association for many years afterward. In , Chanel purchased the building at 31 rue Cambon, in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris.
In , she opened an early incarnation of a fashion boutique , featuring clothing, hats, and accessories, later expanded to offer jewellery and fragrances.
By , Chanel owned five properties on the rue Cambon, buildings numbered 23 to She invited them to her new home, Bel Respiro , in the Paris suburb of Garches , until they could find a suitable residence.
Bader was interested in selling Chanel No. They created a corporate entity, Parfums Chanel , and the Wertheimers agreed to provide full financing for the production, marketing, and distribution of Chanel No.
For ten percent of the stock, Chanel licensed her name to Parfums Chanel and withdrew from involvement in business operations. It is said that theirs was an immediate bond of kindred souls, and Misia was attracted to Chanel by "her genius, lethal wit, sarcasm and maniacal destructiveness, which intrigued and appalled everyone".
They also shared drug use. By , Chanel had become a habitual drug user, injecting herself with morphine on a daily basis, a habit she maintained to the end of her life.
The writer Colette , who moved in the same social circles as Chanel, provided a whimsical description of Chanel at work in her atelier, which appeared in Prisons et Paradis That tuft of curly black hair, the attribute of bull-calves, falls over her brow all the way to the eyelids and dances with every maneuver of her head.
In , Vera Bate Lombardi , born Sarah Gertrude Arkwright ,  reputedly the illegitimate daughter of the Marquess of Cambridge ,  afforded Chanel entry into the highest levels of British aristocracy.
It was an elite group of associations revolving around such figures as politician Winston Churchill , aristocrats such as the Duke of Westminster, and royals such as Edward, Prince of Wales.
The duke lavished Chanel with extravagant jewels, costly art, and a home in London's prestigious Mayfair district.
His affair with Chanel lasted ten years. The duke, an outspoken anti-Semite, intensified Chanel's inherent antipathy toward Jews. He shared with her an expressed homophobia.
In , Chanel was quoted by her friend and confidant, Paul Morand , "Homosexuals? I have seen young women ruined by these awful queers: They will use any means to destroy a competitor and to wreak vengeance on a woman.
The queers want to be women—but they are lousy women. The prince allegedly was smitten with Chanel and pursued her in spite of her involvement with the Duke of Westminster.
Gossip had it that he visited Chanel in her apartment and requested that she call him "David", a privilege reserved only for his closest friends and family.
Years later, Diana Vreeland , editor of Vogue , would insist that "the passionate, focused and fiercely independent Chanel, a virtual tour de force," and the Prince "had a great romantic moment together".
Chanel built a villa here, which she called La Pausa  'restful pause' , hiring the architect Robert Streitz. Streitz's concept for the staircase and patio contained design elements inspired by Aubazine , the orphanage where Chanel spent her youth.
There is only one Chanel. Goldwyn offered Chanel a tantalizing proposition. Chanel accepted the offer. Accompanying her on her first trip to Hollywood was her friend, Misia Sert.
En route to California from New York, traveling in a white train carriage luxuriously outfitted for her use, Chanel was interviewed by Colliers magazine in She said that she had agreed to go to Hollywood to "see what the pictures have to offer me and what I have to offer the pictures.
Both Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich became private clients. Her experience with American movie making left Chanel with a dislike for Hollywood's film business and a distaste for the film world's culture, which she called "infantile".
The New Yorker speculated that Chanel left Hollywood because "they told her her dresses weren't sensational enough.
She made a lady look like a lady. Hollywood wants a lady to look like two ladies. Chanel introduced the left-wing Renoir to Luchino Visconti , aware that the shy Italian hoped to work in film.
Renoir was favorably impressed by Visconti and brought him in to work on his next film project. Chanel was the mistress of some of the most influential men of her time, but she never married.
She had significant relationships with the poet Pierre Reverdy and the illustrator and designer Paul Iribe. After her romance with Reverdy ended in , they maintained a friendship that lasted some forty years.
A review of her correspondence reveals a complete contradiction between the clumsiness of Chanel the letter writer and the talent of Chanel as a composer of maxims Her involvement with Iribe was a deep one until his sudden death in The Chanel couture was a lucrative business enterprise, by employing 4, people.
The boyish look and the short skirts of the s flapper seemed to disappear overnight. Chanel's designs for film stars in Hollywood were not successful and had not enhanced her reputation as expected.
More significantly, Chanel's star had been eclipsed by her premier rival, the designer Elsa Schiaparelli. Schiaparelli's innovative designs, replete with playful references to surrealism , was garnering critical acclaim and generating enthusiasm in the fashion world.
Feeling she was losing her avant-garde edge, Chanel collaborated with Jean Cocteau on his theatre piece Oedipe Rex.
The costumes she designed were mocked and critically lambasted: However, due to the declaration of war by Great Britain on 3 September , the ballet was forced to leave London.
They left the costumes in Europe and were re-made, according to Dali's initial designs, by Karinska. In , at the beginning of World War II , Chanel closed her shops, maintaining her apartment situated above the couture house at 31 Rue de Cambon.
She said that it was not a time for fashion;  as a result of her action, 4, female employees lost their jobs. In closing her couture house, Chanel made a definitive statement of her political views.
Her dislike of Jews, reportedly inculcated by her convent years and sharpened by her association with society elites, had solidified her beliefs.
She shared with many of her circle a conviction that Jews were a threat to Europe because of the Bolshevik government in the Soviet Union. During the German occupation, Chanel resided at the Hotel Ritz.
It was noteworthy as the preferred place of residence for upper-echelon German military staff. World War II, specifically the Nazi seizure of all Jewish-owned property and business enterprises, provided Chanel with the opportunity to gain the full monetary fortune generated by Parfums Chanel and its most profitable product, Chanel No.
The directors of Parfums Chanel , the Wertheimers, were Jewish. Chanel used her position as an " Aryan " to petition German officials to legalize her claim to sole ownership.
At war's end, Amiot returned "Parfums Chanel" to the hands of the Wertheimers. During the period directly following the end of World War II, the business world watched with interest and some apprehension the ongoing legal wrestle for control of Parfums Chanel.
Interested parties in the proceedings were cognizant that Chanel's Nazi affiliations during wartime, if made public knowledge, would seriously threaten the reputation and status of the Chanel brand.
Forbes magazine summarized the dilemma faced by the Wertheimers: On 17 May , Chanel received wartime profits from the sale of Chanel No. Her future share would be two percent of all Chanel No.
The financial benefit to her would be enormous. In addition, Pierre Wertheimer agreed to an unusual stipulation proposed by Chanel herself.
Wertheimer agreed to pay all of Chanel's living expenses—from the trivial to the large—for the rest of her life. Signalled as suspect in the file" Pseudonyme: Anti-Nazi activist Serge Klarsfeld declared, "It is not because Chanel had a spy number that she was necessarily personally implicated.
Some informers had numbers without being aware of it. Vaughan establishes that Chanel committed herself to the German cause as early as and worked for General Walter Schellenberg , chief of the German intelligence agency Sicherheitsdienst Security Service and the military intelligence spy network Abwehr Counterintelligence at the Reich Main Security Office Reichssicherheitshauptamt in Berlin.
He was released in owing to incurable liver disease and took refuge in Italy. Chanel paid for Schellenberg's medical care and living expenses, financially supported his wife and family, and paid for Schellenberg's funeral upon his death in When interrogated by British intelligence at war's end, Schellenberg maintained that Chanel was "a person who knew Churchill sufficiently to undertake political negotiations with him".
Count Joseph von Ledebur-Wicheln, a Nazi agent who defected to the British Secret Service in , recalled a meeting he had with Dincklage in early, in which the baron had suggested including Lombardi as a courier.
Dincklage purportedly said, "The Abwehr had first to bring to France a young Italian woman [Lombardi] Coco Chanel was attached to because of her lesbian vices Unaware of the machinations of Schellenberg and Chanel, Lombardi was led to believe that the forthcoming journey to Spain would be a business trip exploring the potential for establishing Chanel couture in Madrid.
Lombardi acted as intermediary, delivering a letter written by Chanel to Winston Churchill, to be forwarded to him via the British Embassy in Madrid.
British intelligence files reveal that the plan collapsed after Lombardi, on arrival in Madrid, proceeded to denounce Chanel and others to the British Embassy as Nazi spies.
The committee had no documented evidence of her collaborative activities and was obliged to release her.
According to Chanel's grand-niece, Gabrielle Palasse Labrunie, when Chanel returned home she said, "Churchill had me freed". The extent of Churchill's intervention for Chanel after the war became a subject of gossip and speculation.
Some historians claimed that people worried that, if Chanel were forced to testify about her own activities at trial, she would expose the pro-Nazi sympathies and activities of certain top-level British officials, members of the society elite, and the royal family.
Vaughan writes that some claim that Churchill instructed Duff Cooper , British ambassador to the French provisional government, to protect Chanel.
Requested to appear in Paris before investigators in , Chanel left her retreat in Switzerland to confront testimony given against her at the war crime trial of Baron Louis de Vaufreland , a French traitor and highly placed German intelligence agent.
Chanel denied all the accusations. She offered the presiding judge, Leclercq, a character reference: Chanel's friend and biographer Marcel Haedrich said of her wartime interaction with the Nazi regime: When Vaughan's book was published in August , his disclosure of the contents of recently declassified military intelligence documents generated considerable controversy about Chanel's activities.
The House of Chanel issued a statement, portions of which were published by several media outlets. Chanel corporate "refuted the claim" of espionage , while acknowledging that company officials had read only media excerpts of the book.
The Chanel Group stated, "What is certain is that she had a relationship with a German aristocrat during the War. Clearly it wasn't the best period to have a love story with a German even if Baron von Dincklage was English by his mother and she Chanel knew him before the War.
In an interview given to the Associated Press , author Vaughan discussed the unexpected turn of his research, "I was looking for something else and I come across this document saying 'Chanel is a Nazi agent' Then I really started hunting through all of the archives, in the United States, in London, in Berlin and in Rome and I come across not one, but 20, 30, 40 absolutely solid archival materials on Chanel and her lover, Hans Günther von Dincklage, who was a professional Abwehr spy.
Vaughan also addressed the discomfort many felt with the revelations provided in his book: This is definitely something that a lot of people would have preferred to put aside, to forget, to just go on selling Chanel scarves and jewellery.
In , Chanel moved to Switzerland , where she lived for several years, part of the time with Dincklage. Five rooms from La Pausa have been replicated at the Dallas Museum of Art , to house the Reves' art collection as well as pieces of furniture belonging to Chanel.
Unlike the pre-war era, when women reigned as the premier couturiers, Christian Dior achieved success in with his " New Look ", and a cadre of male designers achieved recognition: Chanel was convinced that women would ultimately rebel against the aesthetic favored by the male couturiers, what she called "illogical" design: At more than 70 years old, after having her couture house closed for 15 years, she felt the time was right for her to re-enter the fashion world.
According to Edmonde Charles-Roux, : In her last years she was sometimes accompanied by Jacques Chazot and her confidante Lilou Marquand. The former rivals shared happy memories of times with the Duke of Westminster.
They frequently strolled together through central Paris. As began, Chanel was 87 years old, tired, and ailing. She carried out her usual routine of preparing the spring catalogue.
She had gone for a long drive the afternoon of Saturday, 9 January. Soon after, feeling ill, she went to bed early. She died in her infamous style, announcing: As early as , Harper's Bazaar raved over Chanel's designs: This season the name Chanel is on the lips of every buyer.
The Chanel trademark look was of youthful ease, liberated physicality, and unencumbered sportive confidence. The horse culture and penchant for hunting so passionately pursued by the elites, especially the British, fired Chanel's imagination.
Her own enthusiastic indulgence in the sporting life led to clothing designs informed by those activities. From her excursions on water with the yachting world, she appropriated the clothing associated with nautical pursuits: Chanel's initial triumph was the innovative use of jersey fabric, a machine knit material manufactured for her by the firm Rodier.
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